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Detailed entries for one subject from the INDEX TO HOW TO DO IT INFORMATION.
Click on a see also (sa) or tracing (xx) to view detailed entries about a related subject.
The entries are in alphabetical order by magazine name and then in chronological sequence.
To obtain a copy of any magazine article contact your local public library or the publisher.


Techniques of haute couture. A sampling of techniques from designer Charles Kleibacker cover fabric, underlining, pattern layout, seams, facings, hems and zippers.
THREADS #6 Aug-Sep 1986 pg. 52
Correction THREADS #7 Oct-Nov 1986 pg. 5

Tip: How to make two traditional tailoring notions, a dauber and pressing pads.
THREADS #13 Oct-Nov 1987 pg. 10

A description of the materials used and the construction of a custom-made suit.
THREADS #14 Dec 1987-Jan 1988 pg. 42

The principles behind manipulating darts to shape clothing.
THREADS #14 Dec 1987-Jan 1988 pg. 64

How to spot and correct three common pants-fitting problems: the back inseam, the center back seam and back darts.
THREADS #18 Aug-Sep 1988 pg. 36

How to adapt a vintage dress style to a modern fit. Explains measuring the pieces of an original garment and making a rescaled pattern, sewing a prototype and tips on final fitting details.
THREADS #18 Aug-Sep 1988 pg. 38

"Soft tailoring," techniques used in tailoring a jacket for a woman. Includes instruction for preshrinking woolen fabric, for edging the canvas interfacing with muslin, and for making bound buttonholes.
THREADS #22 Apr-May 1989 pg. 44

Practical tailoring techniques from Coco Chanel. Describes quilting a shell to a jacket lining and construction of the jacket. Instructions for making a Chanel buttonhole, for adding trims, and for making a Chanel button with a fabric ring with gold center.
THREADS #23 Jun-Jul 1989 pg. 24
Added Info THREADS #25 Oct-Nov 1989 pg. 4

Tip: Use scraps of bar soap instead of marking chalk for making tailor's marks that will wash out completely.
THREADS #24 Aug-Sep 1989 pg. 8

Fully fashioned comfort. Fresh design ideas for knit fabric from the workshop of Joaquim Verdu. Includes suggestions from a machine knitter on techniques to incorporate (double-bed fabrics, a long stitch, racking and use of a linker.
THREADS #33 Feb-Mar 1991 pg. 74

Techniques from the workroom of fashion designer Gene Meyer. (1) Basic pattern for a one-piece garment. (2) Cutting and marking. (3) Reinforcing corners of medium-weight and pile fabrics. (3) Seams and finishing edges of double-faced fabrics.
THREADS #34 Apr-May 1991 pg. 32

How to alter garments to accommodate a figure with one leg and hip longer than the other.
THREADS #36 Aug-Sep 1991 pg. 10

Advice on how to alter garments for uneven shoulders.
THREADS #36 Aug-Sep 1991 pg. 10

How to accommodate a full bust and hollow upper chest without creating a gaping armhole or neckline.
THREADS #37 Oct-Nov 1991 pg. 8

How to adjust the bust points and bustline fullness for a crossover front with a collar (a surplice).
THREADS #39 Feb-Mar 1992 pg. 8

Memories of a Parisian seamstress. Tales and techniques from the workrooms of couturier Jacques Fath. How to drape a gown on a fitted tulle foundation.
THREADS #40 Apr-May 1992 pg. 44

Tips and tools for measuring yourself accurately without distorting your normal stance. A guide to the measurements needed to solve fitting and pattern-adjusting problems.
THREADS #40 Apr-May 1992 pg. 60
Added Info THREADS #43 Oct-Nov 1992 pg. 4

Advice on ways to add extra ease for a broad back.
THREADS #41 Jun-Jul 1992 pg. 8

Advice on how to analyze the amounts of ease a garment needs.
THREADS #51 Feb-Mar 1994 pg. 40

Use barrel earring backs to avoid pricking someone being fitted and to keep pins from slipping out.
THREADS #54 Aug-Sep 1994 pg. 14

A muslin test-garment made from fusible interfacing allows for speedy construction and alterations.
THREADS #59 Jun-Jul 1995 pg. 4

Tip describes how to reposition shoulder seams for smoother shoulder lines.
THREADS #63 Feb-Mar 1996 pg. 18
Added Info THREADS #67 Oct-Nov 1996 pg. 6
Added Info THREADS #69 Feb-Mar 1997 pg. 6

How to use a photocopied "silhouette" (a croquis) to test style and fit before sewing. A way to look objectively at your figure to discover how you're shaped.
THREADS #65 Jun-Jul 1996 pg. 52
Added Info THREADS #66 Aug-Sep 1996 pg. 6

Fitting sleeve and bodice for shoulders that roll forward.
THREADS #66 Aug-Sep 1996 pg. 30

Tip on using the lining of a garment as a replacement for the muslin version of the garment used for fitting.
THREADS #70 Apr-May 1997 pg. 20

Inside Galanos. Finishing techniques from designer James Galanos. (1) Use of a paper shaper. (2) Finishing seams with piping. (3) Underlinings. (4) Bias-bound edges. (5) Waist stays. (6) Hand-stitched, reinforced buttonholes.
THREADS #71 Jun-Jul 1997 pg. 59
Added Info THREADS #73 Oct-Nov 1997 pg. 10

The master tailor Richard Tyler. How to add polish to garments by borrowing a few of Tyler's extra-fine details. (1) Tucked peplum and sleeve. (2) Chinese wedding pocket. (3) Narrow, double-welt pocket. (4) Hand-sewn details.
THREADS #73 Oct-Nov 1997 pg. 28
Correction THREADS #74 Dec 1997-Jan 1998 pg. 6

Inspiration from the Orient for garment-design elements. How to make frog closures and miter inside and outside bound corners.
THREADS #78 Aug-Sep 1998 pg. 46

Fitting the figure of women older than 55.
THREADS #82 Apr-May 1999 pg. 54

How to fit a rounded upper back or a dowager's hump.
THREADS #83 Jun-Jul 1999 pg. 24